Book
Matthieu Paley : Oubliés sur le toit du monde

Wakhi women fetching water at the spring. Sarhad village, Wakhan, Afghanistan. © Matthieu Paley

Daryo Boi, the Khan’s shepherd, takes the camels out from the camp. High Pamir, Afghanistan. © Matthieu Paley

Kyrgyz sometimes dip their fingernails in henna for protection against the cold. Khan’s camp. © Matthieu Paley

Don’t drop that goat ! Buzkachi , also called Ulak Tartish in Kyrgyz is a rough, ancient horse game played since the days of Ghengis Khan . It can be found all over Central Asia. © Matthieu Paley

Above the frozen river, a natural cave provides shelter from the cold winter night near Baharak, High Pamir, Afghanistan. © Matthieu Paley

Stubborn. Yaks have their own opinion when it comes to crossing frozen rivers. 16 year old Nemat Ullah, a Kyrgyz wanting to get home – a 5 days journey on a frozen river - will have the last word. © Matthieu Paley

Gossip hour. Tella Bu and her sisters hang out after bringing the sheep home. Khan’s camp, High Pamir, Afghanistan © Matthieu Paley

Quick, back inside - escaping the cold and wind. Up at 4200m, winter can last up to 8 months, with temperatures dropping to -40C.. © Matthieu Paley

At the heart of winter. A Wakhi wedding in Imit village, Wakhan, Afghanistan. © Matthieu Paley

Not a good year for Nassim . His wife recently died of pneumonia and his horse was killed by wolves. With the world’s highest infant and maternal mortality, the borders between life and death are thin in the Pamir. © Matthieu Paley

Chinor, a young Kyrgyz girl, looking for a stray animal. © Matthieu Paley
In a thick, illustrated book, Matthieu and Mareile Paley tell the story of their discovery of the Pamir, an isolated region of northeastern Afghanistan, made virtually inaccessible due by rugged geography and diplomatic tensions among China, Pakistan and Tajikistan. These high, round mountains, capped in snow eight months of the year, are covered in summer months by a thick grass that makes the local yaks the plumpest in the region. They are also home to the Kirghiz, a tenacious, nomadic people numbering slightly more than a thousand.
The region’s harsh landscape matches an unsentimental philosophy of life, which the texts in the book, written like a travelogue, relate with the intimacy of a love story. Additional text boxes by the anthropologist Ted Callahan accompanies the raw beauty of the photographs, providing historical information about these isolated people dispersed throughout Turkey, Pakistan and Afghanistan after the 1978 Marxist coup in Kabul. Their skin, burnt by the climate, is illuminated by their traditional dress, shimmering in this light at the end of the world. The mountains reveal their towering peaks in variations of browns, tans and whites, blending together out of sight in dizzying convolutions. The photographs reflect this near virgin beauty, this hostile environment, the emotions hardened by the climate. With the precision of an explorer, they document the living conditions of this unknown community.
This context gives the images in this book an almost caricatured perfection – not the one of a distant observer but the one of an awoken and alert admirer. Matthieu has traveled to the Afghan Pamir on and off for the past 12 years, speaks Wakhi and likes to occasionally sing along love songs when climbing over high passes. Over the years, he became part of that blue-eyed family he photographed – reflecting his own. Protected from the destructive dictatorship of globalization, even though some tremors can be felt, the Pamir is the timeless Afghanistan of Matthieu and Mareile Paley, far from this agitated country, that wars and medias stubbornly try to define.
Laurence Cornet
« Pamir : Oubliés sur le toit du monde »
Matthieu & Mareile Paley
Text by Roland and Sabrina Michaud
Co-édition La Martiniere / Knesebeck
256 pages, 50 euros
Links
http://www.paleyphoto.com
http://www.pamirbook.com
Contributors
Laurence Cornet

